I can relume any hands or dial however you desire. I specialize in tinting the lume to match vintage tritium and radium colors for old trench watches and military watches. I can also match existing lume and remove the harmful radioactive old lume safely. I use Noctilumina and Tri-Tec Superluminova pigments and binders. Please note: vintage pigments come non- luminous by default. However, I have a light and dark vintage pigment which is semi-luminous. The lighter pigment being the best option for luminosity. Please call or email me to discuss what you are looking for and whats options will best suit your needs.
Here we have a rare waltham dial which had a chip in it which removed about 4 of the painted ticks. I forgot to take a photo of the original state but you were able to see the copper laying underneath. The picture on the left show the first layer of nail polish. It took about 5 layers of white nail polish with hardener to get it almost level with the dial. It is important to leave it slightly off level in order to allow the thin layer of enamel paint that will ultimately match the color of the rest of the dial to lay perfectly even with the surface of the dial and not look like its sitting on top. It takes a bit of practice but since I am also an artist I know a thing or two about mixing paint and matching colors. This took some white with a tiny dot of black and yellow mixed in. I will thin out the paint mixture with turpentine and add a nice even coat, let it dry but not fully cure. Then I will wet a hardened felt Qtip (found in model airplane isle at local arts and crafts store) with nail polish remover or acetone. I will then pass the Qtip over the painted layer over and over until it lays even. This will remove some of the paint so thats why it is important to leave a shallow gap when doing the final nail polish filler. This step may take a few applications. Next step is the same as last but this time I am using testors gloss enamel clear. Finally I make the markers either using indian ink or in this case since markers are so tiny and thin, I use a .005 Micron marker, and BOOM finished result! It looks great to the eye but I would not say its perfect, but sure beats paying $200+ to have it fully restored. You be the judge.
Case polishing is not something I always do. I prefer to preserve the original finish but depending on the dial and type of metal used for the case a nice polishing really finishes the watch nicely. Normally any gold or gold filled cases will be polished, in some cases I will polish sterling silver, nickel, and silverode. Silver cases that are considered military pieces will have a black finish, sometimes it is original and in some instances I will oxidize the case with sulfuric acid and then spray a layer of satin finish lacquer for protection.
Any original japanning is left as is.
Watches that were made from a base metal alloy and then plated with Chromium have a tendency to corrode due to heat and sweat from the wrist. These cases are carefully stripped of their plating. Sanded down, polished, then ultimately re-plated with Nickel using electrolysis. Much care taken to not loose any of the original lines and facets of the case. In my opinion when it comes to metals, there is no watch case too far gone and can always be restored.